Alas, in composing this blog, I am remembering restaurants and eats that have turned my head and taught me lessons about good eating. Finding the way to one’s own taste preferences is a matter of education, lots of eating, trying, tasting, stretching and making a hobby (obsession?) of food and flavor combinations. My first big step into this world began at L’Assiette as I, like so many others, were taken by the cuisine (and personality) of the then very thin, plucky Lulu Rosseau, owner/chef .
As years went by (about 25 years of them) both Lulu and I rounded. She never lost her pluckiness. Her food never lost its punch. She paid attention to flavors that exploded in your mouth. She succeeded in this by carefully selecting quality products delivering utmost freshness. Preparation and presentation were impeccable. Her menu steadied the course and was consistently great from one year to the last.
For the next 25 years, I kept returning to L’Assiette, in particular for the boudin noir parmentier, blood sausage buried in a heap of creamy mashed potatoes. In the beginning Lulu prepared nearly an entire kilo of blood sausage (or so it seemed), so much 2 persons could (but didn’t) share. With it came a huge snappy, green salad full of piss and vinegar…tastes chez Lulu were never dull. As the years went by, the copious portion of boudin was replaced by “just the right amount,” enough for one person. Flavors, product and presentation however remained just as exciting.
In attempting to locate her address and telp number, I discovered Lulu had sold L’Assiette, in the 14th Arrondisement of Paris. Lulu was always on the pricey side, but she delivered. Her special flare and temperament were renowned, so over the years she attracted the well-heeled and better recognized names in Paris. Watching her grow was a process in motion and good eating the piece de resistance et raison d’etre.
Perhaps it’s worth returning to L’Assiette under new ownership. It appears prices have remained high and of course the menu changed. Ambiance wise, it is a tasteful, classy, interesting little place. Anyone whose tried L’Assiette under new ownership, please tell us about it.